The Golden Triangle

It’s like we have a sixth sense knowing where to be at the right time.

After long riding days and little rest, we’ve come across the small town of Pushkar. Saddle rash galore, I wanted to keep it low key, but my better half convinced me to go on a hunt for street food. Thank god.

I’m still unsure of exactly what it is, but I’ve gathered that it’s a cultural heritage festival that happens twice a year. People from all around the area come, and there’s locally famous musicians, dancers, and ceremonial spirit gurus. The adults draw outlines of super intricate sidewalk murals, and the kids color it in with flowers and colored sand. They string fairy lights all along the lake and light candles all along the steps leading down to the lake. The whole town, centered around the lake, is like a fairy garden.

Pushkar to Jaipur. With visas on our back, we only allocated one day here so we arrive by noon and spend the rest of the day sightseeing. Amber Fort is a labyrinth, centered around the Mirror Palace. I’m sure if you got there just at the right time, you can catch the reflection of the sunrise, but riding and sightseeing in the same day doesn’t let you be picky about photography.

Between Jaipur and Agra, there’s the mother of all step wells. It’s 19.5 meters deep and really quite the effort just to get some water.

Now, I know I’ve made India sound wonderful. And it is. But the dirty India you have in your mind is what we found in Agra. Trash everywhere, a constant pollution haze, even the dogs are more territorial here. A little disappointed (not haven seen the sights yet), we find a local mechanic to put LG in for minor surgery. These guys squeeze us in right before closing, and let us sit on their tire chairs and watch (they think we’re nuts). We could tell straight away that they knew what they were doing, because they were wearing button down shirts and trousers, but didn’t have a spot of oil on them except their oily black hands. Precision.

Forget the flash new official Royal Enfield shop next door, this guy is the RE guru who’s been here longer than anyone. He specializes with older ones just like ours! Lucky find.

What’s starting to get to me are the animals. The litters and litters of puppies, piglets, and other baby animals. They’re all out fending for themselves, crossing busy streets, trying to find a way to coexist with humans. While the mechanics are at work, I wander off to go see the puppies. There’s five playing on the road while mama sleeps. Two wonder off onto the road and create a traffic jam, making me all the more glad we saved Dinosaur (our stray) from the street.


After puppy cuddles, a bike that goes faster than ever, and running into all the Japanese people, we’re off to see the sights. I think they speak for themselves:

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